Merzouga beyond the dunes: Khamlia, Rissani and the Erg Chebbi area

Most travellers come to Merzouga for the Erg Chebbi dunes, one of the largest sand seas in Morocco. But the area has more to offer if you have a little time: villages with their own traditions, oases and the remains of one of the great caravan cities.

Erg Chebbi: a change of dune, a change of light

The dunes stretch from north to south beside Merzouga and change colour through the day, from the pink of dawn to the deep orange of the afternoon. Climbing one at sunrise or sunset is one of the most remembered moments of the trip.

Khamlia and Gnawa music

South of Merzouga, the village of Khamlia is known for its Gnawa community, descended from people who came from sub-Saharan Africa. Gnawa music, with its chants, metal castanets (krakeb) and the guembri, is part of its identity and can be heard in the village itself.

Rissani and old Sijilmasa

To the north, less than an hour by road, lies Rissani. Nearby are the remains of Sijilmasa, a city that for centuries was a key stop on the caravan trade across the Sahara. Rissani is also home to the mausoleum of Moulay Ali Cherif, ancestor of the Alaouite dynasty that rules Morocco.

Fossils and seasonal lakes

The Erfoud and Rissani area is famous for its fossils, such as ammonites and trilobites, worked in local workshops. And west of the dunes, the Dayet Srji depression can fill with water after rain, drawing birds for a while.

Before you go

To prepare the night in the desert, see how to prepare your visit to Merzouga. If you are choosing a route, the 4-day desert route from Fez spends a full day around Merzouga, and this comparison explains the differences between starting in Fez or in Marrakech.